Biscuits on a Saturday Morning

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When you’re trying to figure out what to do for breakfast this weekend, please consider whipping up some simple, homemade biscuits. I’ve been making biscuits for over 20 years, and they’re a regular staple in our household. Many people are afraid of turning their flour and dairy products into paperweights or hockey pucks, but that really shouldn’t ever be an issue. I’m here to help, and you’ll know who to thank when you’ve pleased your family.

First, the flour. You can use all purpose flour, but I highly recommend you make it easier on yourself and pick up some self-rising flour. This not only provides most of the leavening power you need, but the wheat in this flour is a bit softer (i.e., less gluten) than AP flour. Thus, you’re more likely to turn out a light and flaky biscuit.

The second thing you need is buttermilk. If you can get the stuff in the glass jars from Maple View Farm dairy, even better, as it has a higher fat content, and when it comes to biscuits, fat is your friend. Otherwise, regular buttermilk will suffice.

Third, you need butter — unsalted butter, that is. Salted butter is actually fine, but you can’t control the flavor as much. I also think the unsalted butter creates a fluffier biscuit — perhaps due to the higher moisture content in butter with salt. I might be imagining it, though. You also want the butter to be cold. Some people like to use shortening in their biscuits, but I like keeping it all dairy. If you have some good lard, that will work, too. Over the years, I’ve used butter exclusively as I always have it, it’s always cold, and it’s easy to measure.

Whole milk is good, half-and-half is better, and heavy cream is the best. As I said, fat is your friend. Biscuits are a guilty pleasure, so don’t make a compromise here.

Finally, you’ll need some baking soda and some salt (unless you’re using salted butter). That’s all you need when it comes to foodstuffs.

The only other items you need are a pastry cutter/blender, a rolling pin, and a biscuit cutter — oh, and a hot oven.

The important thing to remember is to be gentle with the dough. That’s why I use a pastry cutter rather than a food processor to cut in the butter. I’ve found my biscuits are always tougher when made with the food processor. Once you’ve cut in the butter, you’ll want to add your liquids all at once and gently stir to combine. You’ll toss the dough onto a counter, knead it only 2-3 times, and then roll out for cutting. If you work the dough much more than that, the gluten will take over, resulting in that NHL-ready puck. Remember not to twist your cutter when cutting out the biscuits, as that causes the edges to pinch a bit, which can impede the proper rise.

These biscuits won’t have an ultra-soft cake-like crumb that you’ll find at Big Ed’s, but they’ll be tender and flaky and filled with flavor.

One of the finest ways in the world to eat biscuits is with nothing but butter, but when we want to be a bit more decadent, we make the “cheese.” The “cheese” is sharp cheddar cheese that has been melted in the oven without a top. We just cut up cubes of cheese, put it in a small casserole, and throw it in the oven while it’s heating up. A nice little crust will form on the top. After awhile, some of the fat will start to separate from the cheese solids, but don’t worry about that. We put some cheese on a hot biscuit, add some fig preserves, and enjoy like a fat and happy puppy. As my father-in-law says, that’s a “mammy-smacking meal” — makes you want to smack your mammy.

Click below for the recipe.

Simple Biscuits

  • 2 cups self-rising flour
  • 1/2 tsp baking soda
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 6 Tbsp cold unsalted butter
  • 2/3 cup buttermilk (cold)
  • 1/4 cup cream, half-and-half or whole milk (c0ld)

Preheat oven to 450°F. Mix dry ingredients in a medium bowl. Cut cold butter into tablespoon-sized pieces, add to flour mixture, and cut in with a pastry cutter until butter is like coarse crumbs. Add liquid all at once, stir gently to bring it together, and turn onto a flat surface dusted with flour. Knead gently 2-4 times, folding the dough over itself. It will still be somewhat coarse. Scrap up dough, dust surface with flour, and roll out gently until about 3/4″ thick (you may also pat it out. Cut out biscuits with a round 2-3″ biscuit cutter. You’ll need to dip the cutter in flour after every other biscuit. You will also need to gather up the dough scraps and re-roll to maximize your yield. These biscuits will be a bit tougher than the ones from the first “roll.” Bake for about 10-14 minutes until golden brown.

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6 Responses to Biscuits on a Saturday Morning

  1. Scott Luetgenau says:

    You are the man.

  2. Mark Schreiner says:

    I grew up on such so-called “baking powder” biscuits. But I hate all the fussing with cutting fat into flower. And I’m positively paranoid about toughening the dough by overworking.
    So, I’ve recently switched to cream biscuits, a favorite of James Beard. All you need is dairy (I can tell you’re a fan of the milk-cow). There’s no cutting-in. Also, handling the dough actually improves it, so there’s little risk of tough biscuits. Additionally, I like the boarding-house simplicity of it all — even going to the point of cutting wedge-shaped biscuits with a knife, so that I don’t have to use a biscuit cutter and deal with all that scrap.
    Here’s the James Beard recipe for cream biscuits:

    2 cups all-purpose flour
    1 tablespoon baking powder
    2 teaspoons sugar
    1 teaspoon salt
    1 to 1 1/2 cups heavy cream

    Heat the oven to 425 degrees F.

    In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, sugar, and salt. Add 1 cup of the cream, stirring to form a smooth dough. Add up to 1/2 cup additional cream if mixture is too dry.

    Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead gently for about 30 seconds. Pat it into a circle, about 1/2-inch thick. Cut into wedges. Place on an ungreased baking sheet and bake until golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the oven and serve hot.
    ###

  3. winston says:

    Not that anyone should cook with a plan to have leftovers, but . . .

    I’ve found that if I use shortening in the biscuits, then on day 2 they don’t fall apart as easily if I’m only using butter and buttermilk (I use Alton Brown’s recipe because, well, Grandma’s is impossible to figure out). Plus, day old biscuits are great for cheese biscuits!

    I’ve never tried a recipe that adds cream, so next biscuits will be your recipe, Varmint.

  4. Marlene says:

    Dean, as you probably know, I’ve been on a quest to make decent biscuits. I’m almost there, but now I have to try your recipe.

  5. Cheryl says:

    I’d been successfully making biscuits for years using my nowfallingapart Betty Crocker cookbook. In the last few years, I switched from regular AP flour to White Lily and biscuits were even better. The last couple of times I made biscuits, the hub commented that they were too salty/didn’t taste quite right….was I losing my touch? No, I guess I’m losing my mind—last night, I was replenishing the White Lily canister when I noticed “Self-Rising” on the bag! No wonder the biscuits tasted off what with the extra additions of salt and baking powder. I’d always used regular flour; guess my eye/hand coordination was off the day I got the bag of self-rising flour. And I’m please to report that the “new” biscuits turned out well this morning.

  6. I ve been looking for a recipe to make them..
    Thanks for sharing!

    A food blogger next door 🙂

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